Beyoncé may have become the most-awarded artist in the history of the Grammys last night, but in the run up to the ceremony it appears most of the night’s leading ladies were listening to…Atomic Kitten? The peplum, the much-maligned accoutrement of 2010s pop stars, is back. And frankly after the outpouring of ’80s prom-inspired silhouettes at the Golden Globes back in January, we’re not sure we’re ready for any more polarising style decades to be revived on the red carpet in 2023.
But if you were able to see past all the waist-enhancing confections and over-exaggerated trains, you’ll have noticed that the men were stealing the style limelight at the event. First, there was the personality-led tailoring, which quietly ripped up the red-carpet rulebook that dictates conservative cummerbunds and matching cufflinks. Saint Jhn opted for a flared Maison Margiela suit, worn sans shirt with a sprinkling of diamond necklaces. Trevor Noah and Steve Lacy opted for sleek tuxedos by Gucci and Saint Laurent respectively, Lacy riffing on the louche, insouciant suiting that the French maison proposed for its recent autumn/winter 2023 menswear show. The bling that elevated both looks? A dandyish diamond brooch, affixed to the collar.
Paintbox dressing can ofter skew Crayola car crash, rather than chic, but Nile Rodgers and Pharrell Williams made wild colours work. In a zesty asymmetric Dior suit, Rodgers accessorised his grass-is-always-greener get-up with a Chanel brooch and beret, while Williams bypassed tailoring entirely, opting for a sporty quilted two piece by Portugual-based brand Ernest W Baker, twinkly Tiffany & Co. sunglasses and a cap. Red-carpet rule breaker Emma Corrin is also a fan.
Timothée Chalamet is also a devotee of the red-carpet brooch (see the 1955 Cartier ruby and diamond pin he wore to the 2020 Oscars, or the Cartier brooch pinned to his sleeve at 2021’s Dune premier in Venice), and at the Grammys a whole range of accessories allowed for a menswear personality flex. Questlove opted for his beloved Crocs, while Hitkidd gave it ’80s normcore dad with gym trainers, jeans and a “Hitkidd for President” trucker cap.
Wilder looks cropped up both on stage and on the red carpet – cue Miguel in full look Diesel denim, and Anderson Paak in upholstery florals. Kendrick Lamar collected his award for Best Rap Album for Mr Morale & the Big Steppers wearing a head-to-toe Martine Rose look fresh from her recent autumn/winter 2023 show in Florence, including a tie, shell jacket and Rose Shox Nike trainers.
The peplum may be back. But when it comes to power dressing, this writer is bowing down to the boys.
