You’re here because you need a haircut, right? I get it. The process proves unnecessarily hard. And the anxiety involved in switching styles overwhelms even the coolest cat. Although the core styles haven’t changed much since the early 20th century, icons aplenty can shift and reshape the status quo with a simple visit to their high-end salon. They’ll leave with a gravity-defying haircut you envy, fetching camera-wielding paparazzi along the way.
And don’t get me wrong, the captured celeb looks great. No matter the hairdo, it seems they can do no wrong. Publications suddenly proclaim the current moment the era of the upright bob — that’s a fake haircut, but indulge me — and you’re left wondering, “Why doesn’t my hair look like that?” or “How do I even ask for that?” Stop that. Starting points abound and can act as a way forward toward your desired haircut. Using a classic style like a crew cut as the foundation, for example, one can tweak it a little to add edge or skew conservative.
Where to Start
Unless you’re forced to abide by rigid grooming regulations – a la the military, although they’ve since adapted their code to include ponytails, buzzcuts and dreadlocks — there’s no sense in limiting what your hair can look like. Minimal research — aka a quick Google search — reveals millions of ways to wear your hair. But look around, men’s haircuts aren’t that different from person to person, and switching styles isn’t rocket science. The good ones stick around and the bad ones are blips.
It’s also important to consider length. Some styles take months — if not years, depending on how fast your hair grows — to achieve. Others are quick yet irreversible decisions. Before you go bald or commit to billowing layers, think about it a little more simply. Look at yourself in the mirror; then at your photo reference; yourself in the mirror again; the haircut once more; envision it all over again. Bring the photo with you but be ready to make adjustments, albeit minor.
How to Ask for What You Want
“A photo reference, whether it be some cuts you’ve seen (from a celebrity standpoint) or just looks you’ve seen on social media, can be a really great jumping-off point. At that point, you’re not necessarily discussing very strict terms in regards to texture, length or whatever it may be, but it’s more so trying to look at that photo, see if it works with that person’s personal style and then tailoring something to them that’s going to be close. There’s no such thing as one-size-fits-all for this,” Rob McMillen, co-founder of NYC barbershop Mildred, tells us. He also offers his opinions on how long you should wait between appointments. “If you keep it really short, [you should go] two to three weeks; if you keep something medium length, three to five; and if you have a longer look, maybe it’s five to seven or even longer.”
That means the haircut your favorite athlete wore last week won’t look identical on you — or your friend or your father — and especially so a week or two after it’s cut. Tailoring a style to your face shape, aesthetic, activities and schedule requires assistance from a trained barber. First, figure out your face shape. Then, seek out a style you’re interested in, find a local barber, book an appointment and get the look you’ve been yearning for — or something close to it. And bring whichever photo you need.
Terms to Know
- Number (1-8): A number 1 = 1/8 of an inch, and a number 8 = 1 inch. Everything in-between progresses in 1/8 inch increments.
- Neckline: Your neckline can be finished in four ways, squared, rounded, tapered and blocked. Squared sharpens the edges but fades into your skin. Rounded is the same as squared but with softer edges. Tapered doesn’t assume a shape and naturally progresses from hair to no hair. Blocked doesn’t fade from one length to another and defines a natural neckline.
- Taper and Fade: These two are somewhat interchangeable. Taper means your haircut changes from one length to another. Fade is the progression from a certain length to skin (aka a cut by a clipper without a guard).
- Arches: This is the outline around your hair. Higher arches work well with closer, polished cuts. Natural arches grow out less noticeably.
- Sideburns: Your sideburns can be trimmed above, at or below the ear. If you’re unsure, let your barber (or how you wear your facial hair) be the guide.
- Scissor Cut: Just as buzzes require clippers, some cuts call for scissors exclusively. Tell your barber to steer clear of the the plugged-in groomer if you’re seeking a more natural look.
- Disconnected: This means there’s separation — a difference in length or texture — between the top and sides of your haircut.
- Volume: The height and thickness of your hair.
- Bulk: Excess weight that does not contribute to the hair’s volume.
- Hairline: The point on your head where forehead meets hair.
- Razor Cut: This is hair cut with a straight blade razor. This technique lends texture and volume.
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