Men’s haircuts aren’t like men’s clothes. We don’t change them as often, for a start. Plus the trends involved don’t move so quickly, which is why you probably have the same haircut as your grandfather during WW2. And, if guys do fancy a change, they don’t just jump in with both feet at the nearest Vidal Sassoon Academy.
That’s because very ‘modern’ haircuts age so very quickly. Think about all those mullets in your family photo album. Think about all those curtains in your school photo album. Think about all those album covers of boybands that lasted only slightly longer than their frosted tips. They’re not around anymore. The classics, however, are. So find what you like, stick to it, and hope it works as well for you as it does the most handsome man in your circle.
Not so. Like clothes, one size doesn’t fit all. Take, for instance, the short back and sides war hero cut. It looks great in the picture you so earnestly brought to show the barber, but there’s no guarantee it’ll be quite so successful for you, because your shape – specifically that of your head – will dictate the best sort of haircut. It’s like finding the right pair of jeans, but more important, because this is your actual face.
So, how do you choose the right haircut for your face shape?
Well, first and foremost, you’ve got to identify the shape of your head – of which there are so many. It’s highly likely you won’t neatly fall into one specific category either. But, roughly work out where you sit within the Big Seven below – the most common face shapes barbers usually encounter.
- The Rectangle: Your face is longer than it is wide, with a similarly-sized jawline, forehead and cheekbones.
- The Oval: Your face length is greater than the width between your cheekbones, while a forehead out-measures that of your jawline – which is rounder than it is sharp.
- The Circle: As you’d expect, everything measures up to a similar length resulting in a rounder face shape.
- The Triangle: You’ve got an impressive jawline, and it out-measures your cheekbones, which in turn out-measure your forehead. Also, the formula can be reversed for an upside down triangle.
- The Heart: Your forehead out-measures your cheekbones and jawline, with a pointed chin.
- The Square: Like a rounder face, all measurements are pretty similar but your jawline is sharper.
- The Diamond: The length of the face is the longest measurement, following by your cheekbones, forehead and then a smaller jawline with a pointed chin.
Once you’ve given yourself a rough categorisation: congrats! You’re about to ask for the best haircut of your life. Use that knowledge to define your choices immediately below the ears, too: your beard can also be preened to better suit your face shape. What’s more, know that face shapes (and the best haircuts for them) don’t exist in vacuums; styles that best suit square faces work for rounder ones too, and the same two-way street exists between diamond and triangular shaped faces. Use your head (pun intended).
Now all that’s left is the most important task of all: actually going to get your hair cut. Reservations about opting for a new ‘do are natural – even if it’s not that different, the DIY haircuts of lockdown have traumatised the best of us – but you’re in safe hands. Show your barber one of the below pics and confidently relay what these industry experts say to ask for and you’ll be a-okay. While you’re at it, you may as well look into updating those worn-in jeans, too.
The Textured Crop
Who: Chris Hemsworth
Face Shape: The Triangle
What It Is: One of the most accessible men’s hairstyles in the book, or so says Kane Tuckwell of Idris Barbering Co, a London-based chop shop in Tottenham and Finsbury Park.
What To Ask For: “Some extra weight along the sides to offset your jaw width and allow for a bit more length and texture on top.”
The Twisted Fro
Who: Daniel Kaluuya
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: A low fade, with length on top. “The beauty here is the contrast between the tight back and sides and the more rounded shape on top,” says Tuckwell.
What To Ask For: Most importantly, a square profile says Tuckwell. “You can embrace length as much as you like, but you need to remain square.” And you’ll need a bit of kit too. “Get a curl sponge to bring out some of the hair’s natural movement.”
The Really Long
Who: Jason Momoa
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “Long and layered,” says Dana Caschetta, stylist at Eufora. “I would recommend it on any natural texture, but be wary on fine hair. The ends could look damaged and thin.“
What To Ask For: “Most would think the best way to achieve this look is to stop getting haircuts but it’s actually the opposite. Continuous trims will keep the ends of the hair looking healthy and full instead of frayed and damaged.“
The Long & Short
Who: Adam Driver
Face Shape: The Diamond
What It Is: “A square box cut that’s great for all hair types,” says Caschetta. “For coarse hair with movement, style back with a control product like Eufora Hero Grooming Cream.”
What To Ask For: “Ask your barber or hair stylist to use a texturising tool on the ends for easier styling.”
The Cherubim
Who: Harry Styles
Face Shape: The Heart
What It Is: “A disconnected taper, also versatile but recommended for normal to fine hair to give the illusion of more hair,” says Caschetta.
What To Ask For: “Grow some length first, then ask your barber or hair stylist to leave the front a bit longer so you have more options when styling,” says Caschetta. “A little natural curl helps.”
The Clean Shave
Who: Stanley Tucci
Face Shape: The Rectangle
What It Is: “This is a clean shaved head, and it’s useful if you like to wear hair loss confidently,” says Sait Koca, master barber at Adam Grooming Atelier‘s London Bridge branch and Chief Staff for the group. “Quite often, someone who has male pattern balding on the top can be left with very thick sides which stick out from the roots.”
What To Ask For: “A wet head shave is the ultimate indulgence for those who still want to relax during a trip to the barbers, but clipper and balding trimmers can be used for those in a rush,” says Alex Glover, the master barber of Adam’s Harrods Atelier. “The best results with this look is to keep the scalp in good health, protected with a UV protection moisturiser. Cleansing with exfoliation can help dry skin if it persists.”
The Executive Contour
Who: Kumail Nanjiani
Face Shape: The Square
What It Is: “The style name is hard to pinpoint. Based on the length of his sideburns this could be a grown out ‘executive contour’,” says Koca. “Except this is just worn in a messy, relaxed style.”
What To Ask For: “A soft pomp, so you have a soft quiffable top and some slickable side texture,” says Adam’s Glover. “Lengths should be dependant on your hair thickness and texture; a barber could best advise. If your hair is of a similar texture, you could ask for eight centimetres at the front on top, and the sides at around five centimetres.”
The French Crop 2.0
Who: Paul Mescal
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “This is a variation on a French crop haircut. The true French Crop would be a little more similar in length on the graduated sides as it is on the rounded top layering and fringe,” says Koca. “The modern version of this is a cropped (or round layered) top with short back and sides, or even a skin fade. This version is something in-between the two. “
What To Ask For: “Ask your barber for round layering at about five centimetres length on the top, graduating to a slightly longer fringe of six to eight centimetres with scissors, and texturised,” says Glover. “A short back and sides should graduate to meet the round layers on the parietal ridge. You could opt for all scissors or a bit of clipper graduation too.”
The Bleacher
Who: Maluma
Face Shape: The Rectangle
What It Is: “A classic brush buzz that’s different from a typical buzz cut, as it’s fractionally longer,” says Denis Robinson, barber and Artistic Director of Ruffians. “There’s a toned bleach job too, which really sets this classic cut apart.”
What To Ask For: “A number four on top for a softer, slightly hazier finish with further sections around the back and sides cut away in pattern. Those wanting a more commercial version should ask for a drop in a fade around the back.”
“And as for the colour, ask for a bleach with a blue ash toner. Without it, your hair will just look yellow and brassy.”
The Classic
Who: Riz Ahmed
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “A pretty but basic scissor cut – basic in the best possible way,” says Robinson.
What To Ask For: “A natural head hugging taper around the back and sides, with a little softness left on the edges. Hair is marginally longer on top to enhance the head shape and create a pleasing silhouette.”
The Precisely
Who: Ryan Gosling
Face Shape: The Triangle
What It Is: “A cleaner finish for a hair type that’s probably the hardest to cut,” says Robinson. “Super fine, and dead straight.”
What To Ask For: “Clippers around the back and sides for a cleaner finish, then just scissors but go for a longer length so hair doesn’t look to shorn. It needs a little softness. Natural edges around the ears and hairline, too.”
The Bed Quiff
Who: Nick Jonas
Face Shape: The Diamond
What It Is: “It’s a classic cut, and one that’s all about the image,” says Robinson. “You’ll need product, and sea salt sprays will help mould finer hair.”
What To Ask For: “A taper fade around the back and sides, and a traditional cut on top that goes shorter at the crown, which then extends slightly longer to frame the forehead. Hair needs to be blowdried and finished with a hair cream for a firmer hold.”
The Cherubim
Who: Justin Bieber
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “A throwback to junior school wedding pageboys with pageboy haircuts,” says Robinson.
What To Ask For: “The hair has been feathered layered to remove surface weight and create movement and texture. This is created by starting at the crown at the shortest point, and exaggerating the angle towards the front the whole way around to leave length and weight around the edges.”
The Sweepback
Who: Robert Pattinson
Face Shape: The Square
What It Is: “Longer hair that’s out-growing its past cut,” says Robinson.
What To Ask For: “Growing your hair doesn’t always mean not cutting it. Go for a trim six weeks after your last appointment, and tell you’re barber you want it balanced for a longer style. Then go have it trimmed every two months.”
The Brideshead (Revisited)
Who: Bradley Cooper
Face Shape: The Heart
What It Is: “A graduated haircut,” says Robinson.
What To Ask For: “Ask for a sharper graduated cut around the radial section of the head, then go longer on a slightly disconnected layer on top. This creates a subtle wedged shape.”
The Flush Cut
Who: Michael B. Jordan
Face Shape: The Circle
What It Is: Exactly what it says on the lid. “A flush cut means all flush,” says Mark Maciver, award-winning barber and founder of SliderCuts. “It’s a one level, even cut.”
What To Ask For: “A one point five with the grain all around, and a hairline shape-up. For the beard, shave the sides and then leave the moustache and goatee natural.”
The Plaits
Who: A$AP Rocky
Face Shape: The Rectangle
What It Is: “Single plaits, with a shape-up,” says Maciver.
What To Ask For: “Medium size – a space in between each plait – single plaits, and a soft hairline shape-up to finish.”
The Natural Fro
Who: John David Washington
Face Shape: The Triangle
What It Is: “A natural fro style with a beard shape-up.”
What To Ask For: “Cut down freehand to level of choice, using a kurl king sponge to slightly twist the hair to give it a natural curl,” says Maciver. “Shape up the beard to the highest line possible to give a neat natural look, and not too sharp. It needs to be ever so slightly faded, but not to skin level.”
The Skin Fade
Who: Anthony Joshua
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “A skin fade, with the grain,” says Maciver.
What To Ask For: “A number one with the grain, a skin fade, and a very soft shape-up.”
The Big Quiff
Who: Jon Bernthal
Face Shape: The Rectangle
What It Is: “A high quiff with tight sides,” says Joe Pomper, head barber at Murdock London.
What To Ask For: “A clipper cut on the sides using a grade two, tapered around the neck and ears. Clippers should be taken quite high on the sides to create the square shape, and top, disconnect hair from the sides, building the length as you get to the front.”
The Polite Parting
Who: Park Seo-Joon
Face Shape: The Circle
What It Is: “A classic side part with clippered sides.”
What To Ask For: “A clippered grade two/three on the sides, kept clean around the ear and neck,” says Pomper. “Keep some length on the top, fractionally longer at the front. Maintain the weight around the parting in order to smooth it down.”
The Fauxhawk
Who: David Beckham
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “A short texture fauxhawk – like a fauxhawk, but not quite.”
What To Ask For: “Short clipper on the sides using grade one, or even shorter. This should be blended with scissors on the corners to give texture,” says Pomper. “Keep hair longer on top with a rounded shape and lots of texture. To style, push up at the front and in the middle, but keep it disheveled so the finish isn’t too ‘perfect’.”
The Throwback
Who: Cillian Murphy
Face Shape: The Square
What It Is: “Mid-Nineties Hugh Grant inspired curtains.”
What To Ask For: “This style is proving very popular at the moment with lockdown hair in full swing,” says Pomper. “Ask for a mid-length scissor cut on the back and sides, with length on the ear and nape. Leave heavier on the top, and slightly layered to soften the shape and to help flow the style back.”
The Natural Quiff
Who: Henry Golding
Face Shape: The Heart
What It Is: “A natural, textured quiff”.
What To Ask For: “A finger-length scissor cut around the sides, kept neat around the edges with some length on top so you can sweep over,” says Pomper. “Styling should be textured to keep a slightly ruffled finish.”
The Getting-A-Bit-Longer
Who: Brad Pitt
Face Shape: The Square
What It Is: “This is a long layered cut,” says Joe Mills, founder at London barbers Woolf Kings X. “You need a minimum of three to five inches all round”
What To Ask For: “Ask your barber or stylist to leave plenty of length, and it has to be layered and texturised as this will help with styling and as it grows out.”
The Chalamet
Who: Timothée Chalamet (no way!)
Face Shape: The Heart
What It Is: “A slightly longer cut styled to sit in around the back and sides,” says Mills.
What To Ask For: “Ask for a cut around three inches in length around the back and sides with some texture in it so it doesn’t look like a Lego head. The top is slightly longer, and once again, you need texture adding to the layered cut.”
The Clean Cut
Who: Ryan Reynolds
Face Shape: The Diamond
What It Is: “A clean cut short back and sides.”
What To Ask For: “You want the top of your hair to be around three inches long, and it will need some texture in there to help get it to sit up and over,” says Mills. “Make sure the back and sides are blended into the top.”
The Prince Curls
Who: Dev Patel
Face Shape: The Oval
What It Is: “A men’s haircut that is all about shape, natural curl and texture,” says Mills.
What To Ask For: “If you’ve grown your hair out post-lockdown, ask your barber to work the length through the back and sides so it’s at collar length at the back, and at least half way down the ears. It should be layer cut to create the shape, and you ideally need a good four to five inches of hair through the top to create this shape.”
The War Hero
Who: Tom Holland
Face Shape: The Rectangle
What It Is: “A short, sharp military-inspired cut that has a hint if flat top about it,” says Mills.
What To Ask For: “Take the back and sides down to a short scissor over comb, but not so short you see the scalp. On the top you need a little more length to the front to create the slight quiff, but it needs to be short enough to sit up and it needs to be slightly squared off in shape.”
Like this article? Sign up to our newsletter to get more delivered straight to your inbox
Need some positivity right now? Subscribe to Esquire now for a hit of style, fitness, culture and advice from the experts
