At the recent Paris men’s fashion season, for fall 2024, a few brands made real statements with daring beauty.
For Feng Chen Wang, Naïma Bremer spangled metallic pailettes around and under some models’ eyes and gilded a few faces in their entirety, explaining she was “taking the inspiration of imperfection.”
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The makeup artist envisioned expanding a canvas onto fingers, hair and ears, describing it as “peeling away, like aged paintwork in nature. I worked with one warm metallic tone complimenting every color in the collection.”
At Masu, makeup artist Kanako Yoshida crafted what looked like tears streaming down cheeks.
“I suggested an expression like inner tears that you can’t show people when you think about a dark hero who feels lonely,” Yoshida said.
“The concept is that I feel a sense of loneliness, but it was like loneliness in the process of people’s growth and in a positive sense. It’s not only sad tears, so shouldn’t be real tears,” she said. “Then I came up with a little sparkling decorative tears made by resin.”
Yoshida created what look like spiders’ webs on other models’ faces using the same technique.
Walter Van Beirendonck chose two makeup looks for his collection, which adopted styling from the designer’s show archive. One featured brightly colored round disks affixed high on models’ cheeks, under their eyes. This was “stick it up” makeup designed by WVP for the Wonderland fall 1997 collection.
Another look involved prosthetic 3D horns, nodding to the designer’s Believe collection from fall 1998.
“I reused styling and accessories from 30 years ago, to underline the Cadavre Exquis idea,” said Van Beirendonck, referring to the Surrealist writer and artist invention allowing for collaborative compositions, sometime resulting in “beautiful monsters.”
At 8on8, hairstylist Joseph Pujalte created graphic hairstyles, taking a cue from retro finger waves in the 1920s. “As a classic of men’s hairstyle, we wanted to modernize it and make it more casual and sporty, with sharp shapes coming on the face,” he said. “I created this look with strong gel, using finger waves technique. It’s really a matter of feeling.”
Beauty took interesting twists also at Balmain, Rick Owens, Sankuanz and Comme des Garçons Plus.
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