Is There Room For World-Builders in Fashion Anymore?

“The collection is about exploring new places, the idea of a journey that is physical but also in your mind,” said Blazy backstage. His cast of characters walked fast, like memorable strangers you might spy catching a train, adorned with varying degrees of global influences. One model in a leather tie carried a fringey, anemone-like coat in the crook of his arm; another businessman archetype wrapped a leather skirt around his waist before leaving the house. Blazy was thinking about our dynamic world, and journeys through it that can uncover unexpected new possibilities. “It’s about how you can transform yourself after a trip, you come back different,” he said. His universe is clearly expanding in bright new directions.

Finally, on Sunday, Balenciaga held its Spring 2024 show in Paris. Following his narrowly-focused apology collection, you might call it, would Demna keep the clothes at the center of attention? Yeah, right. Demna’s mother opened the show, which also included a cameo from The Cut fashion critic Cathy Horyn, Demna’s husband, BFRND, one of Demna’s fashion professors from Antwerp, and other important figures in his life. “This show is a reflection of Demna’s world,” said the collection notes.

I’m thinking Balenciaga is back

His absurdist humor was back, thankfully, whether you like the new and absolutely gargantuan Cargo sneaker (available now, in an edition of 1,000) or not. The thing about Demna is these postmodern garments are often achieved through legitimate material innovation, and come from a deep love of tailoring and craftsmanship, even if the content spurs more discussion than the form. Most strikingly, many of the pieces were made out of upcycled vintage clothing, like his mother’s asymmetrical car coat, made with three repurposed garments. Apparently, Demna did a lot of the sewing of these pieces himself.

According to Vogue Runway, Demna renounced his last show, telling Sarah Mower, “I look back at it, and I really hated it. It’s a good show, but it’s very polished. In many ways it was a show of fear. I don’t like it when it’s polished. I like it when it’s rough. That is my aesthetic, and I have to stay loyal to that. What I showed today was probably my most personal and my most favorite collection, because it was about me; it was about my story.”

The world builders aren’t done yet.

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